Say What Now?
Super What Now?
Tech Talk: Wool, Part II
Last week, we talked about sheep wool, including how to measure its quality and why we prefer Merino sheep wool for garments. Today, we’re talking about the difference between natural (untreated) and superwash wool. (Before we dive in, note that “natural” may also be used to describe undyed wool. For now, we’re only using this word to distinguish between how wool is treated to prevent shrinkage/felting.)
Have you ever machine washed something made from wool that shrunk (felted) so much you couldn’t easily see your stitches? If so, it was probably made with natural wool. To felt, natural wool needs heat (hot water), agitation (machine washing, usually) and soap. Sometimes, we machine wash natural wool on purpose, as in Suzy’s felted French Market Bag. However, many stitchers also have personal experience with accidental felting, as in Caryn’s Entrelac Shrug that shrunk from a generous adult size to a toddler size. (Want to see the difference in person? We have both the shrunken vest and an adult size in the shop!)
But many of us have machine washed wool items and they seemed just fine, so what’s the difference? These projects were likely made with superwash wool, which has been chemically treated to remove or coat some of the fiber’s outer layer. This layer is made of overlapping scales (like roof shingles); removing or coating the scales makes it harder for the fibers to stick to each other and felt. Superwash wool is generally (not always, check the maker’s label!) machine washable and it can feel softer than natural wool.
How do you choose between natural and superwash wool? First, are you concerned about long term care and durability? Machine washable yarns are great for gifts and high friction use, like socks. If you’re using colorwork techniques, natural yarn is a good choice, because the fiber will bloom nicely and attach to adjacent fibers. Also, natural wool is more sustainable, because making it uses less chemicals and creates less waste water than superwash wool.
-Caryn and the Yarnivore Crew
P. S. Yarnivore will be open regular hours Labor Day weekend.
P. P. S. We're making room for fall yarns and have filled up our Clearance section. Come see what we've just marked down!
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